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NO-KNOT EYELETS


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#1 gdog

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Posted 21 April 2011 - 06:49 PM

Anyone using this kind of thing at the end of their floating line... see the picture at this link

http://www.google.ca...iw=1366&bih=575

If yes!! HOW tha hell do you do, this "nail" wont go inside of the floating line and I am using the smallest nail which is for 2-3LW ...


If you don't how, what are you using or do, what are you suggesting for a replacement.

Note: I always used this little nail thing but the guy at the store who sell my gears did it for me, and I need to redo it on my 2nd spare rod...
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#2 chris0020

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Posted 21 April 2011 - 08:11 PM

I use them and I love them they make changing leader line quick and easy. I use a saftey pin or needle to make a hole in the fly line, It takes alot of PATIENCE but well worth it if you can get it in. I find that it depends on the fly line some are easier to get the eyelet in them others. Oh and a small pair of pliers to hold the eyelet helps too!!!
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#3 pond jumper

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Posted 21 April 2011 - 10:15 PM

i tried them one and didnt have the patience for them, so now i use braided loop connectors, a lot easier to attach than fooliong around with those eyelets
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#4 morfrost

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Posted 22 April 2011 - 12:42 PM

I don't like these connectors because there is a hinge point at the end of the pointed steel barb inside the fly line. Everytime you cast , the needle point works inside the line,. eventually causing failure in the fly line. If you're like me, you don't check this but about once a year; at the start of the season. Ususally line failure at this point in the line occurs when you're 10 miles back in thne woods with no spare, or have a trophy fish on the end of the line.

I much prefer the braided loop conection. This works like a Chinese finger trap on the fly line and usually comes with a heat shrink connection for the end of the braid. This too has some limitations which can be easily overcome.


1. When you slide the braided section over the flyline, it's virtually impossible to get it to jam up tight against the flyline; usually there's a small space between them. This creates a hinge point in the cast. To overcome this, use the heat shrink tube as a sleeve over the point where the braided line loop and the fly line meet. You can cut the heat shrink tube in half and use half here. This reinforces this connection and eliminates the hinge point. If you want, you can take some Shoe Goo and thin it with Toluene (3 parts Toluene: 1 Part Shoe Goo) and paint it on the ends of the heat shrink tube to make this joint nice and smooth.

2. Use a nail knot connection with some fly tying or rod building thread instead of the heat shrink tube at the end of the braided section. You can use the remainder of the Heat shrink tube if you wish, and you can paint either the line or the heat shrink tube as described above to smooth out this joint. I prefer the thread coating, but that's just me.

The Braided loop connection is easy to put on. Tying a nail knot is a little more work, since nothing is rigid.
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#5 gdog

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Posted 22 April 2011 - 04:37 PM

I don't like these connectors because there is a hinge point at the end of the pointed steel barb inside the fly line. Everytime you cast , the needle point works inside the line,. eventually causing failure in the fly line. If you're like me, you don't check this but about once a year; at the start of the season. Ususally line failure at this point in the line occurs when you're 10 miles back in thne woods with no spare, or have a trophy fish on the end of the line.

I much prefer the braided loop conection. This works like a Chinese finger trap on the fly line and usually comes with a heat shrink connection for the end of the braid. This too has some limitations which can be easily overcome.


1. When you slide the braided section over the flyline, it's virtually impossible to get it to jam up tight against the flyline; usually there's a small space between them. This creates a hinge point in the cast. To overcome this, use the heat shrink tube as a sleeve over the point where the braided line loop and the fly line meet. You can cut the heat shrink tube in half and use half here. This reinforces this connection and eliminates the hinge point. If you want, you can take some Shoe Goo and thin it with Toluene (3 parts Toluene: 1 Part Shoe Goo) and paint it on the ends of the heat shrink tube to make this joint nice and smooth.

2. Use a nail knot connection with some fly tying or rod building thread instead of the heat shrink tube at the end of the braided section. You can use the remainder of the Heat shrink tube if you wish, and you can paint either the line or the heat shrink tube as described above to smooth out this joint. I prefer the thread coating, but that's just me.

The Braided loop connection is easy to put on. Tying a nail knot is a little more work, since nothing is rigid.


thanks a bunch!!
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#6 gdog

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Posted 22 April 2011 - 04:39 PM

i tried them one and didnt have the patience for them, so now i use braided loop connectors, a lot easier to attach than fooliong around with those eyelets


Yes, same here.. spend probably 1hr the other day and probably 30 min the day before.. what a waste of time!! lol.. anyhow I think I will follow the braided loop connection, well I will give it a try at least
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#7 madaboutfishing

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Posted 24 April 2011 - 08:09 PM

i tried them one and didnt have the patience for them, so now i use braided loop connectors, a lot easier to attach than fooliong around with those eyelets


Yup loop connectors and perfection loops for the win!
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